Estagel is derived from the old Catalan name "Villa Stagello." This former border town was once part of Aragon and at another ruled by the kings of Majorca. To the north the French built numerous castles, now famous for their dramatic locations and the brutal suppression of the Cathar heretics.
In the centre of the village is a statue of Estagel's famous son, Francois Arago. Arago made discoveries in physics and was also a minister of war under Napoleon. The Arago family name is still alive in Estagel.
Today it has less than 2,000 inhabitants and village life is somewhat more peaceful. Two co-operative caves produce a wide variety of wines and there are at least half a dozen independent wine makers to visit. It seems that there is no wine type that Estagel does not produce. The village is rightly proud of it's powerful red wines drawn from numerous varieties including Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah (Shiraz to antipodeans) and the local Carrignan amongst others. The village vineyards are within area designated "A.O.C. Cotes de Rousillion Villages" and there are many excellent offerings labelled "Vin de Pays de Cotes Catalans."
Rosé lovers also have a delightfully wide choice not only at the caves but also local restaurants and cafes which serve all three colours by the bottle and the pitcher.
Muscat grapes produce the famous sweet white wine of the region, "Muscat de Rivesaltes." which is served locally as a chilled aperitif. The same variety produces a refreshing dry white along with other varieties including Sauvignon and the Italian Vermento as well as the newer and unstoppable Chardonnay. We have drunk a sparkling white from the village on occasions which follows the local traditions of "Banquette de Limoux" and of Cava just over the border but is rarely seen for sale.
The co-ops sell five and ten litre boxes of wine that are convenient for taking home on the plane and also good value at 1.7 Euros a litre. Better still is taking your own container to one of the independents and having them fill it from the tank at 75 centimes per litre. (That's roughly the equivalent to 75 pence for a standard bottle and is usually very pleasant.) These knowledgeable artisans will gladly explain the reason their wines taste so good as you sample their wares. You are under no obligation to buy but it is considered polite to purchase three bottles if you take some time tasting. (No hardship as you are unlikely to be disappointed or impoverished!)
Should you emerge from the caves into the bright sunshine of the village square you will find three bakers, a butcher, two newsagents, two hairdressers, a pharmacist and two grocers amongst other family run shops. A doctor's surgery and a small supermarket are slightly outside the centre but the village is compact and everything is in walking distance. There is a covered municipal swimming pool but with the Med a short drive away and river bathing in neighbouring villages the pool is more of a winter attraction.
The Mairie (town hall) operates a quaint public address system through a system of speakers. A crackle of glorious French patriotic music will precede announcements of social events, deals to be had in the shops and the market each Monday and Friday, lost cats and other items to test your French! The speaker opposite our house hasn't worked for a long while and no-one seems to be hassling the Maire to fix it....
The summer sees regular outdoor events. The Mairie organises several free appearances by local entertainers and when these turn into discos on the square, the town stays up until the early hours. Other organisations organise grillades (barbeques) to raise funds and the standard of food and wine for your money is superb. The rugby club do (XIII Agly) comes aprticularly highly recommended. Ask at the Mairie or local shops to find out what's on. The butcher often sells tickets.
The three café/bars in the town square are not posh but are friendly. The Bar de Commerce and Café d'Avenir have tables and chairs out on the square throughout the summer and serve good local fare. Busses operate a daytime service between Quillan and Perpignan/Rivesaltes.
The village is built on the banks of the River Agly and a pleasant afternoon can be spent walking it's banks. The walk east to Cases de Penes is very flat and passes one of the premier wine producers of the region, the Chateau de Jau. A walk up the Ravine des Graves (normally a dry river) will take you deep into the vineyards and the aromatic "garigue." Follow your nose up overgrown tracks, through overgrown cork oak groves and new almond orchards to find viewpoints amoungst the Mediterranean Pines. Pick wild Myrtle berries and olives from abandoned groves and perhaps even spot the odd "Sanglier." (Wild Boar- a local speciality to ask for in a restaurant or to pre-order at the butcher.)
On a hill above the town is the 13th century Chappelle St. Vincent. (Appropriately dedicated to the patron saint of wine makers!) This ancient monument is a source of local pride and has great views of the village and local area. The vineyards run up to the churchyard which now has built in barbeques rather than tombs!
On a Sunday morning the largest bakery produces a giant "Pain de campagne." Villagers walk in after mass and buy a slice by weight before milling around in the square with friends, buying local goats cheese from a stall set up by the road or oysters from another stall on special occasions. Further down the road a second local producer opens his Fromagerie on Saturdays and Sundays. If you are feeling like a truly lazy Sunday all this is on our doorstep and both the butcher and grocer sell hot roast chickens. Serve with fresh bread and salad from the shops next door, local wine and cheeses of your choice and finish it with a pastry treat from the patisserie on the roof terrace as the swallows swoop overhead to their nests over the road. A little closer to heaven, I hope you will agree.